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                              去昆侖山看采玉

                              2014-3-27 10:05:11 來源:文學報 【 】 點擊: 次         ★★★

                                  那年8月份,一個朋友去和田,拍關于玉石的紀錄片,讓我跟他去,正好閑著沒事,二話沒說,開車上了路。8月7日離開烏魯木齊,走了兩天,第一天,過了庫爾勒,住到了輪南,走了有七百公里。第二天,穿越沙漠公路,又走了七百公路才到。于闐是和田地區一個縣,在昆侖山腳下。人口不多,是個小縣。但因產玉,名氣還不算小。找到宣傳部,說明來意,一聽是拍玉的片子,派了個干事,幫助工作。兩天后,往山上走。我的車,是個臥車,不能上山,只能坐吉普。

                                  往昆侖山上走,走了120公里,在山中轉來轉去,轉到了一個村子。村子叫柳什。村口一排石頭房子,與村民的土房完全兩樣。這是個中轉站,采玉的人,不管是上山,還是下山,都會在這里停留。不停沒辦法,吉普車開到這里,再往前,就沒有路了,只能停下車來。要再往前走,只能換騎驢子或騾子,或步行。當然,手機也不再有信號。柳什村位于半山腰,海拔二千多米,村子不大,村民不多,但歷史很久。一村人,二百個左右,操維吾爾語。村子里一個老人,近百歲,據說,山上有玉石,本來沒人知道,是他爺爺去放羊,發現了玉石,從此,這個村子,年年能見到成群的采玉者。采玉者到了柳什,再往山上去,要雇向導和驢騾。村子的男人,幾乎人人都干過這個活。同時也成了村民一項穩定的經濟收入。這一點,從古到今沒變過。

                                  我們也一樣,到了柳什村后,很快就雇好了向導和驢騾。但沒有馬上上山,剛下了雨,山溝里有洪水。要等洪水退了才能走。兩天后的那個早上,我們出發了。五個人,我加朋友,還有縣委干事,兩個是向導兼雇工,還有七頭驢子一頭騾子,往山上走,沒有它們可不行,別看它們個頭小,力氣卻很大。馱了東西,再馱上人,還一樣爬山。我個子高,又重,讓我騎騾子。剛騎上去,騾子欺生,亂跳,差一點把我摔下來,好在小時候騎過馬,走了沒多遠,騾子就很聽話了。

                                  剛出村子時,還有路。走著走著就沒有路了。準確說,路還有,只是藏在了河水里,躲在了山崖間或野草里。這樣一來,涉水爬山就成了經常的事。過水還好些,騎在驢騾身上,腳可以不挨水。不過有幾處水深浪激,還是把衣褲打濕了。怕的是過陡坡,一些坡,實在太險了。緊貼著峭壁,走過時,不敢看,一看腿就發軟。向導說,每年都會有驢騾和采玉者,摔下山去,丟掉性命。

                                  走了整整一天,到了天黑,才走了一半的路。停下休息,在山谷的河邊扎營。河邊有個營地,是采玉者的。沒有人,只有幾間地窩子,里邊有鍋灶,還有草鋪。向導說,這是個古驛站,存在好幾百年了。不過,燒了茶,吃了帶來的干馕,該睡覺時,沒有睡在地窩子里。我自帶了帳篷睡袋。夜里,一直睡不著,聽著流動的河水聲,心想,不知道在這以前,有多少采玉者,在這里睡過。第二天,繼續順著河走。這條河,叫克里雅河。河的盡頭,河的源頭,就是采玉的地方。走到太陽西斜,走到了一個四千五百米高的山坡上,看到了終年不化的冰川雪峰,向導才說,我們到了。

                                  這個地方,叫阿勒瑪斯。整個和田地區,昆侖山上,比較有名的山玉礦,大約有七八個。阿勒瑪斯是其中較有名的一個。清朝時,出產名玉的“戚家坑”就在這里。站在坑邊,看坑底水面上山的倒影,似乎能聽到從遠古傳來的錘釬的敲擊聲。現在采礦和古代已有很大不同。除了錘釬,還多了風槍和炸藥。采玉的方式,并不復雜。找到一個地方,感覺會有玉石,就用風槍打個眼,裝上炸藥。把石頭炸開,再看是不是真有玉石。而實際上,大部分放的炮,都是空炮。好像這些玉石知道自己很珍貴,總是藏得很深,不讓人輕易得到。

                                  玉礦的承包者說,上山已經快三個月了,還沒有找到像樣的玉石山料。他還說,去年他一炮炸出了個玉窩子,盡賺了百萬元。還說,采玉,要靠運氣,要老天爺幫忙。的確也是這樣,這里的玉石山料的開采,已經有幾千年的歷史,好找的,好采的礦脈,已經沒有了。現在要發現一個有價值的礦脈,越來越難了。發現難,發現了,采下來,同樣不容易。這些玉石山料玉全藏在海拔三千五百米的高山上,沒有路,什么東西都靠人背驢馱。大型機械上不來,全靠人的力氣。而稀薄的空氣,帶來的高山反應,讓不少采玉者,還沒有走到山頂上,就趴下來了,什么都干不成,只能讓驢馱下山去。

                                  說到昆侖山采玉之險難,曾有古人這么說:“千人往,百人返,百人往,十人返。”這話,不走到昆侖山上,不走近采玉者,沒法體會。我不是個采玉者,我只是去看了看采玉,就馬上給了自己一個斷言。此行是此生最大的一次冒險。雖然差一點沒有死在昆侖山,并且還有些后悔。但走出昆侖山,回頭看看時,卻有一種從來沒有過的興奮和激動。

                                  下了山,回到都市,我拾起了擱置了多年的筆,寫出了我的第一部長篇。緊接著,又連著寫了好幾部。寫這些小說時,不由得常想起昆侖山,想起那些采玉的男人。后來,這些小說讓我的命運有了改變。我不敢說,是昆侖行讓我開始了新的人生,但確實是在有了這次經歷后,我的夢想才變成了現實。

                               

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